North Beach San Francisco: Things to do and Venues of the Past
With a prime location between the Financial District and Fisherman’s Wharf, North Beach has long been one of San Francisco’s coolest neighborhoods. It’s the city’s “Little Italy” area where vintage charm meets countercultural grit, offering a mix of Italian restaurants, fun bars and some historic sights. Whether you’re a foodie chasing authentic cannoli or a history buff tracing the footsteps of Jack Kerouac, North Beach is a great place to spend the day.
The Venues We Miss
Despite the fact that North Beach has a lot of historical venues and a vintage feel, it has actually changed quite a bit since I moved to San Francisco over 20 years ago. In fact, one of the first CrawlSF Pub Crawls took place in North Beach, called the North Beach Bar Run, and it is interesting to see how much things have changed.
I use to love cruising through the Martini Lounge, which was not actually a bar. It was run by an eclectic couple and offered a variety of interesting and weird things to buy. Two of my favorite places to grab a bite to eat in San Francisco, L’Osteria del Forno and Giordano Brothers have been gone for a while along with a long list of places that were once packed with people like Rose Pistola, The House and Mona Lisa. Iluna Basque was an amazing spot run by Top Chef contestant, Mattin Noblia, who would always come out of the kitchen to talk to diners and really made the experience great. Steps of Rome was also on the list and recently re-opened after a long hiatus, but it will never have the same feel as the original (although the new spot is still a great place to grab dinner).
I probably remember the nightlife the most, though, as a 20-something in the early 2000s. One of the first places I went to in North Beach was the Black Cat Lounge on Broadway to see a band called Cannonball in their chill downstairs area. I remember meeting the legendary Matt Corvi at Velvet Lounge, which was hands down the best club in the city. With lines all the way down Broadway, getting to cut the line and roll into the club made us all feel like celebrities. Corvi’s other North Beach spot that opened much later, Blend, also was one of those places where you just had a great time. Before heading out, you could stop by Coit Liquors with a big selection of booze and friendly staff. There were lots of other great bars that are just a mere memory now. Amante, owned by a guy named “Wizz” was a cool lounge spot that was packed almost every night of the week. Grant & Green offered a divey spot to grab some beers and see live music. Fiddler’s Green and Rogue Brewery had their time cut short due to fires. And last, but not least, it’s hard to not miss O’Reilly’s. Especially their absolutely bonkers St. Patrick’s Day Block Party.
While I miss some of the places that are now just part of North Beach history, North Beach is actually still kind of the same (in a good way). Like the great Axl Rose sang in his 80s anthem, “Patience”, “And the streets don’t change, but, baby, the names.” North Beach is still an amazing neighborhood and you can find a mix of historic spots that have been around forever to some newer places that blend in perfectly with the area.
North Beach History
North Beach has been a part of many important historical times, such as the Gold Rush era and the freewheeling 1950s. Back in the mid-1800s, this area was part of the infamous Barbary Coast, an area notorious for its saloons, gambling dens and dance halls. The 1906 earthquake and fire leveled much of the city, but Italian immigrants rebuilt North Beach into a tight-knit community.
In the post-World War II years, North Beach became the epicenter of the Beat Generation. Writers like Allen Ginsberg & Neal Cassady hung out here as they wrote revolutionary works that challenged the status quo. City Lights Bookstore, founded in 1953 by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, published Ginsberg’s “Howl” and sparked a landmark obscenity trial about free speech. The neighborhood also made headlines in the 1960s when the Condor Club introduced the world’s first topless dancing act in 1964, performer Carol Doda.
North Beach Landmarks
North Beach has a lot of great attractions. Coit Tower, the 210-foot white sentinel atop Telegraph Hill is probably the most recognizable. Built in 1933 with funds from eccentric philanthropist Lillie Hitchcock Coit, it features murals inside depicting California life. Even though it looks very much like a fire hose, Lillie was a Patron of San Francisco’s Volunteer Firefighters and her late husband was a firefighter, she still claimed the tower was not modeled after a fire hose. Seems a little suspect, but it is what it is. Climbing the tower gives you panoramic views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, and the bay. I don’t think I have climbed to the top of Coit Tower in well over a decade, but it is easy to get caught up in daily life or not take advantage of the cool stuff in your own city.
Washington Square Park serves as the neighborhood’s outdoor gathering place. Opened in 1847, the park is ringed by Victorian homes and perfect for people watching or a picnic. It is also a popular location for a Tai Chi. Overlooking the park is Saints Peter and Paul Church, called the “Italian Cathedral of the West.” It’s where Joe DiMaggio married Marilyn Monroe in 1954, though they couldn’t have a full Catholic ceremony due to her divorce. Also, don’t miss the Beat Museum, a quirky spot packed with memorabilia, including original manuscripts and Kerouac’s typewriter.
North Beach Businesses
North Beach thrives on its legacy spots, many owned for generations. Caffe Trieste, opened in 1956 by Italian immigrant Gianni Giotta, claims to be the first espresso house on the West Coast. The legendary coffe house fueled the Beats with strong coffee and still hosts live music today. Vesuvio Cafe (est. 1948) was a favorite of Kerouac’s, with its bohemian decor and potent cocktails. According to local legend he got too drunk here to make it to Big Sur for a visit with Henry Miller.
Molinari Delicatessen has been crafting Italian sandwiches since 1896, using house-cured meats and imported cheeses. In my opinion, they still have the best sandwiches in the city. Tosca Cafe, dating to 1919, offers classic Italian bites & a jukebox stocked with opera. And City Lights is a still indie bookstore where you can browse poetry sections that feel timeless.
The Best Things to Do in North Beach
Kick off with a stroll along Columbus Avenue, the main drag lined with gelato shops and shops. Grab a slice at Golden Boy Pizza, known for its clam-and-garlic pies on fluffy focaccia. I am not a huge fan of the clam garlic flavor, but their pepperoni is awesome. I would recommend asking for a corner slice. For brunch, Mama’s on Washington Square has been dishing up fluffy omelets and French toast for over 60 years.
Dive into the arts at Club Fugazi, home to the acrobatic revue “Dear San Francisco,” a love letter to the city with circus acts and local lore. This is the former home of Beach Blanket Babylon. Hike the Filbert Steps up Telegraph Hill for wild parrots and hidden gardens or catch a cable car ride to nearby Lombard Street. In the evening, head to Comstock Saloon (est. 1907) for vintage cocktails or to the Condor for a taste of its notorious history. If you’re into vintage shopping, poke around Al’s Attire for custom suits or Vacation for retro threads.
North Beach is a great place to spend the day and/or night and if you are visiting the city for the first time, it should be near to top of your list for things to do.
Want to find out more? Check out our extensive North Beach Neighborhood Guide.
