Sear’s Fine Foods: An Historic, “Only in SF” Breakfast Joint in Union Square
When talking about things to do in San Francisco, it is not always as simple as where to see live music, attend a seasonal event, view some famous pieces of art or enjoy a tasty meal. San Francisco is a unique place with a lot of character, derived from the cast of characters that have built this town and its businesses.
When heading north from Union Square Park, on Powell Street, a few things catch the eye. You will notice trolly cars climbing toward Nob Hill, with passengers waving to passersby and smiling, as if they are the first people, ever, to experience this open air form of transportation. To the right you will see the Beacon Grand Hotel, with its well dressed doormen, enthusiastically greeting all who enter the art deco hotel. To your left, a red neon sign will catch the eye. As you approach, you will see that the sign reads, “Sear’s Fine Foods”. Suddenly nostalgia will overcome you, in the best way. Visions of the breakfasts that June Cleaver and Donna Reed prepared, in their black and white sit-coms will dance in your head. You will feel the urge to peer in the window and read the menu. You will not be disappointed. As you look through the window, a charming, vintage Americano diner of yesteryear will reveal itself. and you will not be able to pass without peering through the window and looking at the menu. When you do, a sense of nostalgia will rush over you. You predict that Sear’s Fine Foods is the kind of place that could give the housewives of the 1950’s a run for their money.
Sear’s Fine Foods was started in 1938. It is one of those true “Mom and Pop” operations that you so rarely encounter in a world over run by chains like IHOP, Denny’s and McDonald’s. Although the original owners are long gone, along with some of the quirky tradition they brought to the table, the place still serves delicious foods, made from scratch, with fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
The original owners were Hilbur and Ben Sears. Ben was a retired circus clown. Hilbur, his wife, was originally from Sweden. They added a traditional Swedish dish to the menu, that remains the signature dish at Sear’s Fine Foods to this day. The dish is Swedish Pancakes with Lingonberry Sauce. Although these famous pancakes were not specifically a breakfast item in Sweden, for the American audience Swedish Pancakes at breakfast made a lot of sense. They are very different from traditional American Pancakes. The Swedish version are light and thing, similar to French crepes and small, like silver dollar pancakes. They have been part of Swedish Culture since, at least the 1500’s, when they were first mentioned in a written publication. Lingonberries are incorporated in much of Swedish Cuisine. The jam, made from this tart berries, is a condiment used on all sorts of foods, including another familiar Swedish Favorite, the Swedish Meatball. In Sweden, it is legal to pick berries from public spaces and many young Swedes had a tradition of picking lingonberries on hikes, while growing up. In Swedish tradition Swedish Pancakes with Lingonberry Sauce were often served on a Thursday, along with pea soup. Apparently the large Catholic Population in the country, traditionally fasted on Fridays and would have a hearty and special meal on Thursdays. Pea Soup was considered a delicacy when the tradition began.
Back when the original owners were still on the scene, they used to park 2 pink Cadillacs outside of the restaurant. These motor vehicles served as an “only in San Francisco” waiting room when lines for a table would get too long. Sadly, the days of Pink Cadillac waiting rooms are long gone. The place does not lack charm though. Its interior is filled with mid-20th Century advertisements, memorabilia, and pictures of San Francisco decades ago. Part of the fun of dining there is looking at all the cool things they have hanging on the walls. There is a breakfast counter, with old school diner benches, where you can sit too. Seating like this is becoming rare today, in a world where traditional American Diners are disappearing.
I always find that the best places to dine in any city, are the places that retain staff for a long time. Sear’s Fine Foods is a restaurant that retains staff for well over two decades. Many staff members stay with the restaurant as a career. They do not age discriminate at Sear’s either. One man, Sidney Amber, was hired at the ripe old age of 106. He retired in 2004 at the age of 109 years old! He was the oldest employed person in the United States. Sidney Amber was 2 years old at the time the 1906 earthquake hit the city.
Restaurants are not easy businesses to run. Those that make it for as many years as Sear’s are doing something right. Even Sear’s has fallen on some challenging times. Luckily, this San Francisco original is so beloved it was saved from closing its doors forever, after it fell in hard times in 2004. After financial difficulties, suffered by 3rd generation owners, they were able to find a buyer who would preserve the restaurants legacy and continue to serve their patented Swedish Pancake with Lingonberry Sauce recipe. A man, by the name of Man Kim, owner of the Lori’s Diner Chain, bought the place in 2004 and promised to keep its beloved menu the same.
Sear’s is still going strong and serves some of the best breakfast in town. The juices are fresh squeezed, the bacon is always cooked to perfection, there is a wide array of breakfast favorites to choose from and their signature dish still has great appeal with locals and tourists. Sear’s Fine Foods should be on your dining to do list when visiting San Francisco.
Sear’s Fine Foods
439 Powell Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
